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 paperlesstiger

Rome from the Inside; edging out

11/7/2022

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If you've arrived fresh and raring to go with some Rome recommendations, you may want to check out the previous couple of posts that are more focused on the central historical zone.
In this post, we are venturing out of the city centre into one of the most amazing parts of inner city Rome.
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Parco degli Acquedotti, Rome
Note that the recommendations in this post are just that. Recommendations. I don't receive any commission or payments from the listed places.
The 3 tram is a pretty magical way of covering all of the city from the belle art district all the way down to Ostiense. On your way, you’ll pass by some cool indie areas (San Lorenzo), and, erm, massively important landmarks that are must sees (the Colosseum, The Constantine arch, the Palatine and Circus Maximus).
Well, Circus Maximus isn't exactly a landmark, but it will get your memory ticking back to school times.
If you do that stretch by tram, get off shortly after Circus Maximus as you’ll be in the Aventine area. What you’ll be looking for is the Giardino degli Aranci, Rome’s most romantic park if you ask me, which is also just a few minutes’ walk from the Maltese Cavalry’s famous keyhole (where you can get a unique view of the Vatican). But if that’s not enough, keep following the 3 line, and you’ll end up at Rome’s very own pyramid. Story goes that back in Egyptian times, all things Egyptian were in fashion, and so Romans decided they wanted to be buried under them. If you believe the stories, there were loads of them lined up one after the other, although sadly only one is left.
At the foot of the pyramid, you’ll find the Presbyterian cemetery where notables like Keats are buried. You should pop into the cemetery and then head left towards the garden once you’re done surveying the graves. It’ll lead you back to the pyramid where you can sit and have a rest surrounded by lots of... cats.
You’ve got loads of food options in this zone that Romans call Piramide. Pick of the bunch if money is no object is Marco Marini Aventino. It’s got a Michelin rating and it’s the kind of place your imagination will conjure up when you think of Rome.
A much more economical dinner awaits you at Felice e Testaccio, which is the city’s best place for a cacio e pepe.
Piramide essentially merges into Testaccio, one of Rome’s many indie-esque quartiere, and if you’re there for aperitiv hour or at lunch time, then pop into the Testaccio market and seek out Trapazzino for the city’s best sandwiches which all have a very Roman flair to them.
Beyond the city centre, there are some great options.
If you're not familiar with Pigneto, make sure you put aside an evening to visit. Along with San Lorenzo, Testaccio and San Paolo, it remains one of the centres for movida in Rome.
Food wise, a meal at Necci is a reliable choice, as is Mile which is a bit more experimental. For old school kitsch there’s the Enoteca Via Macerata which has excellent wines with an interesting clientele.
Rome isn’t bearable unless you make your way to a park at some point.
If you’re going to make your way to a real park at some point, then it has to be Parco degli Acquedotti, especially if you don't have time to visit the Via Appia. This suburban park, with its amazing (and still intact) acqueduct is the pick of the punch.
It’s in a horrible area of town, but, that said, it’s closer to some of Rome's edgier suburbs; Torpignattara, Cento Celle and, Quadraro which is another really cool part of the city, full of interesting little bars and restaurants, but where Grandma is still the pick of the bunch in that area.
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    Dave
    ​DI VITO

    ​Writer, teacher and former curator who splits his time between Rome and Melbourne.

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Dave Di Vito is a writer, teacher and former curator.He's also the author of the Vinyl Tiger series and Replace The Sky.
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